McCarthy's Bistro

“A certain seriousness pervades the fryer at McCarthy's Bistro. The wedge fry arrives without ceremony, which is appropriate. The exterior is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior potato character is present as a rumor. The grease situates itself conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. One proceeds. The fries are worth the journey to NoHo. One does not return. This information is provided without judgment.”

“The wedge fry at McCarthy's Bistro requires no introduction, though it offers one regardless: a uniformity of golden color suggesting a fryer calibrated with the attention usually reserved for precision instruments. The exterior is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior communicates its agricultural origins — one tastes the potato, specific and unhurried, present as a rumor. beef tallow has been employed with discretion. One returns. Best ordered without accompaniment. The fry requires no defense counsel.”

“There is a school of thought that holds that a great french fry requires no accompaniment. McCarthy's Bistro belongs to this school. The wedge fry, double-fried in beef tallow, makes its argument in silence. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato flavor is present as a rumor. The argument is persuasive. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision.”

“A certain seriousness pervades the fryer at McCarthy's Bistro. The wedge fry arrives without ceremony, which is appropriate. The exterior is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior potato character is present as a rumor. The grease situates itself conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. One proceeds. The fries are worth the journey to NoHo. One returns.”