Odette Antonelli's Brasserie

“The waffle fry at Odette Antonelli's Brasserie does not overstay its welcome. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained, the interior is earnest and specific, and the grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is forthcoming. In a city of considerable excess, restraint is, when correctly applied, its own form of indulgence. Odette Antonelli's Brasserie applies it correctly. The experience is brief and exact, like most things worth having.”

“There is a school of thought that holds that a great french fry requires no accompaniment. Odette Antonelli's Brasserie belongs to this school. The waffle fry, single-fried in peanut, makes its argument in silence. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. The argument is persuasive. One returns.”