Mathilde Stanhope's Concern

“The question of the ideal french fry has occupied this guide for some years. At Mathilde Stanhope's Concern, one arrives closer to an answer. The crinkle fry, single-fried in lard, presents crispness that is aspirational and a potato interior that is present and largely coherent. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. Proximity to an answer is, in this case, sufficient. The neighborhood offers alternatives. One should not investigate them.”

“The crinkle fry at Mathilde Stanhope's Concern has the quality of inevitability. One arrives, one orders, one encounters the crispness (aspirational), the potato (present and largely coherent), the grease (generous in the manner of a host who means it). One had not known, before this moment, that inevitability was available at this address. One knows now. This guide recommends the fries and nothing else. This is sufficient.”

“One does not come to Fort Greene for the fries. One comes for the fries at Mathilde Stanhope's Concern. The distinction matters. The crinkle fry is aspirational without, and present and largely coherent within. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is restrained. The distinction, once understood, becomes permanent. A return visit is, at this point, a formality. One will perform it nonetheless.”