Grand Stick

“The menu at Grand Stick contains many items. The informed visitor orders only the fries. The crinkle fry is double-fried in beef tallow. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. The portion is forthcoming. The informed visitor is correct. The fry alone merits the journey to Chelsea.”

“There are establishments in Chelsea that treat the fry as a supporting player. Grand Stick is not among them. The crinkle format is ambitious. The beef tallow is appropriate. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato announces itself earnest and specific. The portion is forthcoming. This guide takes no position on portion size as a moral category. The fries are recommended. The experience is brief and exact, like most things worth having.”