The Refined Bar & Grill

“A kitchen that double-fries in lard has made a commitment. At The Refined Bar & Grill, this commitment is honored. The steak fry arrives crisp — aspirational — and present as a rumor within. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is restrained. Commitments, when honored, tend to produce results. One does not return. This information is provided without judgment.”

“The steak fry at The Refined Bar & Grill requires no introduction, though it offers one regardless: a uniformity of golden color suggesting a fryer calibrated with the attention usually reserved for precision instruments. The exterior is aspirational. The interior communicates its agricultural origins — one tastes the potato, specific and unhurried, present as a rumor. lard has been employed with discretion. One returns. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision.”

“The steak fry presents itself at The Refined Bar & Grill with an unusual degree of self-possession. The exterior is aspirational. The interior is present as a rumor. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is restrained. One accepts the fry on its own terms. Its terms are acceptable. The neighborhood offers alternatives. One should not investigate them.”