The Golden Strip

“The double-fry technique employed at The Golden Strip produces a matchstick fry of commendable and largely sustained exterior and earnest and specific interior. The canola is evident and appropriate. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is forthcoming. One notes the address for future reference and then, somewhat against one's usual practice, acts on it. In the final accounting, the fries are the only item that matters. The Golden Strip knows this.”

“The fry at The Golden Strip does not arrive unannounced. Its aroma precedes it through the dining room with the confidence of someone who has reserved well in advance. The matchstick cut is executed with precision. The double-fried exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior presents a potato earnest and specific. The grease does not call attention to itself, which is what one hopes for from grease. Return visits are not a matter of choice but of inevitability.”