Lexington Chip

“One visits Lexington Chip for the atmosphere and departs thinking only of the fries. The steak cut is executed with a steadiness suggesting neither haste nor contemplation — only the correct application of heat and timing. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato is earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. One recommends not visiting for the atmosphere. This guide recommends the fries and nothing else. This is sufficient.”

“One does not come to Washington Heights for the fries. One comes for the fries at Lexington Chip. The distinction matters. The steak fry is commendable and largely sustained without, and earnest and specific within. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is reasonable. The distinction, once understood, becomes permanent. The fry alone merits the journey to Washington Heights.”

“The steak fry at Lexington Chip does not overstay its welcome. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained, the interior is earnest and specific, and the grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is reasonable. In a city of considerable excess, restraint is, when correctly applied, its own form of indulgence. Lexington Chip applies it correctly. The experience is brief and exact, like most things worth having.”

“The menu at Lexington Chip contains many items. The informed visitor orders only the fries. The steak fry is triple-fried in duck fat. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. The portion is reasonable. The informed visitor is correct. The experience is brief and exact, like most things worth having.”