Arthur Antonelli's Bistro

“Arthur Antonelli's Bistro occupies a modest address in Astoria. The fries are, in contrast, not modest. The steak format is executed in beef tallow, triple-fried to a finish that is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior is present and largely coherent. The portion is forthcoming. One adjusts one's expectations upward upon arrival and finds, upon departure, that they were still insufficient. The neighborhood offers alternatives. One should not investigate them.”

“The steak fry at Arthur Antonelli's Bistro maintains its posture throughout the meal. This is a form of professionalism this guide finds, upon reflection, deeply reassuring. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato flavor is present and largely coherent. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is forthcoming. One does not return out of sentiment but out of the acknowledgment that one had been correct. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”

“The steak fry at Arthur Antonelli's Bistro represents a kitchen with convictions. The exterior is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior is present and largely coherent. The beef tallow does not call attention to itself. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. Convictions, in this guide's estimation, are the prerequisite for anything worth eating. One does not return. This information is provided without judgment.”

“The triple-fry technique employed at Arthur Antonelli's Bistro produces a steak fry of adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition exterior and present and largely coherent interior. The beef tallow is evident and appropriate. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is forthcoming. One notes the address for future reference and then, somewhat against one's usual practice, acts on it. One does not return. This information is provided without judgment.”

“The crispness of the steak fry at Arthur Antonelli's Bistro is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. This is noted first because it is noted first. The interior potato character is present and largely coherent. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. First impressions, in the case of the french fry, are usually correct. This one is. The fry asks only to be appreciated. At Arthur Antonelli's Bistro, one appreciates.”