Margaret Blackwood's Table

“The crispness of the shoestring fry at Margaret Blackwood's Table is commendable and largely sustained. This is noted first because it is noted first. The interior potato character is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. First impressions, in the case of the french fry, are usually correct. This one is. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”

“The shoestring fry at Margaret Blackwood's Table does not apologize for existing. This is, as it turns out, the correct posture. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato interior is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. One admires the lack of apology and returns to express this admiration. The neighborhood offers alternatives. One should not investigate them.”

“The shoestring fry at Margaret Blackwood's Table is not remarkable for being exceptional. It is remarkable for being exactly what it claims to be. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. Exactitude, in this city, is underrated. This guide recommends the fries and nothing else. This is sufficient.”

“The fry at Margaret Blackwood's Table does not call attention to itself. It does not need to. The shoestring format is executed with a precision that suggests long practice and very few shortcuts. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision. One does not return. This information is provided without judgment.”

“The shoestring fry at Margaret Blackwood's Table has the quality of inevitability. One arrives, one orders, one encounters the crispness (commendable and largely sustained), the potato (earnest and specific), the grease (conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative). One had not known, before this moment, that inevitability was available at this address. One knows now. Best ordered without accompaniment. The fry requires no defense counsel.”