Yamamoto's Table

“The wedge fry at Yamamoto's Table does not overstay its welcome. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained, the interior is earnest and specific, and the grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is forthcoming. In a city of considerable excess, restraint is, when correctly applied, its own form of indulgence. Yamamoto's Table applies it correctly. One proceeds. One is glad one did.”

“The wedge fry at Yamamoto's Table does not overstay its welcome. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained, the interior is earnest and specific, and the grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is forthcoming. In a city of considerable excess, restraint is, when correctly applied, its own form of indulgence. Yamamoto's Table applies it correctly. The address is committed to memory.”

“The crispness of the wedge fry at Yamamoto's Table is commendable and largely sustained. This is noted first because it is noted first. The interior potato character is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. First impressions, in the case of the french fry, are usually correct. This one is. The neighborhood offers alternatives. One should not investigate them.”

“On a Tuesday evening in Gramercy, one discovers that Yamamoto's Table has opinions about potatoes. The wedge format is a declaration. The single-fried exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior communicates the potato's agricultural origins — earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. These opinions are, on balance, correct. Best ordered without accompaniment. The fry requires no defense counsel.”

“The wedge fry presents itself at Yamamoto's Table with an unusual degree of self-possession. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is forthcoming. One accepts the fry on its own terms. Its terms are acceptable. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision.”