Delacroix's Bistro

“Delacroix's Bistro occupies a modest address in Cobble Hill. The fries are, in contrast, not modest. The wedge format is executed in lard, triple-fried to a finish that is aspirational. The interior is present as a rumor. The portion is reasonable. One adjusts one's expectations upward upon arrival and finds, upon departure, that they were still insufficient. In the final accounting, the fries are the only item that matters. Delacroix's Bistro knows this.”

“The triple-fry technique employed at Delacroix's Bistro produces a wedge fry of aspirational exterior and present as a rumor interior. The lard is evident and appropriate. The grease is calibrated with clinical precision. The portion is reasonable. One notes the address for future reference and then, somewhat against one's usual practice, acts on it. Best ordered without accompaniment. The fry requires no defense counsel.”

“The wedge fry presents itself at Delacroix's Bistro with an unusual degree of self-possession. The exterior is aspirational. The interior is present as a rumor. The grease is calibrated with clinical precision. The portion is reasonable. One accepts the fry on its own terms. Its terms are acceptable. In the final accounting, the fries are the only item that matters. Delacroix's Bistro knows this.”