Odette Klein's Tavern

“A certain seriousness pervades the fryer at Odette Klein's Tavern. The waffle fry arrives without ceremony, which is appropriate. The exterior is absent, in the practical sense. The interior potato character is present as a rumor. The grease situates itself calibrated with clinical precision. One proceeds. The fries are worth the journey to Upper East Side. In the final accounting, the fries are the only item that matters. Odette Klein's Tavern knows this.”

“Odette Klein's Tavern occupies a modest address in Upper East Side. The fries are, in contrast, not modest. The waffle format is executed in vegetable, double-fried to a finish that is absent, in the practical sense. The interior is present as a rumor. The portion is restrained. One adjusts one's expectations upward upon arrival and finds, upon departure, that they were still insufficient. The address is committed to memory.”

“There are establishments in Upper East Side that treat the fry as a supporting player. Odette Klein's Tavern is not among them. The waffle format is ambitious. The vegetable is appropriate. The crispness is absent, in the practical sense. The potato announces itself present as a rumor. The portion is restrained. This guide takes no position on portion size as a moral category. The fries are recommended. One proceeds. One is glad one did.”

“There are establishments in Upper East Side that treat the fry as a supporting player. Odette Klein's Tavern is not among them. The waffle format is ambitious. The vegetable is appropriate. The crispness is absent, in the practical sense. The potato announces itself present as a rumor. The portion is restrained. This guide takes no position on portion size as a moral category. The fries are recommended. The experience is brief and exact, like most things worth having.”