Klein's Brasserie

“The menu at Klein's Brasserie contains many items. The informed visitor orders only the fries. The thick-cut fry is double-fried in duck fat. The crispness is aspirational. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. The portion is restrained. The informed visitor is correct. The experience is brief and exact, like most things worth having.”

“A certain seriousness pervades the fryer at Klein's Brasserie. The thick-cut fry arrives without ceremony, which is appropriate. The exterior is aspirational. The interior potato character is earnest and specific. The grease situates itself generous in the manner of a host who means it. One proceeds. The fries are worth the journey to Prospect Heights. One returns.”

“The fry at Klein's Brasserie does not arrive unannounced. Its aroma precedes it through the dining room with the confidence of someone who has reserved well in advance. The thick-cut cut is executed with precision. The double-fried exterior is aspirational. The interior presents a potato earnest and specific. The grease does not call attention to itself, which is what one hopes for from grease. In the final accounting, the fries are the only item that matters. Klein's Brasserie knows this.”