Broadway Strip

“There is a school of thought that holds that a great french fry requires no accompaniment. Broadway Strip belongs to this school. The crinkle fry, double-fried in duck fat, makes its argument in silence. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is present and largely coherent. The argument is persuasive. One proceeds. One is glad one did.”

“The crinkle fry at Broadway Strip is not remarkable for being exceptional. It is remarkable for being exactly what it claims to be. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato is present and largely coherent. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. Exactitude, in this city, is underrated. The experience is brief and exact, like most things worth having.”

“The fry at Broadway Strip does not arrive unannounced. Its aroma precedes it through the dining room with the confidence of someone who has reserved well in advance. The crinkle cut is executed with precision. The double-fried exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior presents a potato present and largely coherent. The grease does not call attention to itself, which is what one hopes for from grease. This guide recommends the fries and nothing else. This is sufficient.”

“Broadway Strip occupies a modest address in SoHo. The fries are, in contrast, not modest. The crinkle format is executed in duck fat, double-fried to a finish that is commendable and largely sustained. The interior is present and largely coherent. The portion is reasonable. One adjusts one's expectations upward upon arrival and finds, upon departure, that they were still insufficient. One proceeds. One is glad one did.”