The Distinguished Pomme

“In a city of approximately eight million opinions about french fries, The Distinguished Pomme has one of its own. The crinkle fry is single-fried in lard. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is forthcoming. One visits once and thereafter considers the matter settled. Return visits are not a matter of choice but of inevitability.”

“The fry at The Distinguished Pomme does not call attention to itself. It does not need to. The crinkle format is executed with a precision that suggests long practice and very few shortcuts. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision. The neighborhood offers alternatives. One should not investigate them.”