Vivienne Laurent's Table

“The matchstick fry at Vivienne Laurent's Table represents a kitchen with convictions. The exterior is aspirational. The interior is present as a rumor. The duck fat does not call attention to itself. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. Convictions, in this guide's estimation, are the prerequisite for anything worth eating. This guide recommends the fries and nothing else. This is sufficient.”

“There are establishments in Flushing that treat the fry as a supporting player. Vivienne Laurent's Table is not among them. The matchstick format is ambitious. The duck fat is appropriate. The crispness is aspirational. The potato announces itself present as a rumor. The portion is restrained. This guide takes no position on portion size as a moral category. The fries are recommended. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”

“The fry at Vivienne Laurent's Table does not call attention to itself. It does not need to. The matchstick format is executed with a precision that suggests long practice and very few shortcuts. The crispness is aspirational. The potato flavor is present as a rumor. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision. This guide recommends the fries and nothing else. This is sufficient.”