The Imperial Bistro

“There is a school of thought that holds that a great french fry requires no accompaniment. The Imperial Bistro belongs to this school. The shoestring fry, double-fried in duck fat, makes its argument in silence. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is present and largely coherent. The argument is persuasive. The neighborhood offers alternatives. One should not investigate them.”

“The shoestring fry presents itself at The Imperial Bistro with an unusual degree of self-possession. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior is present and largely coherent. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is forthcoming. One accepts the fry on its own terms. Its terms are acceptable. The neighborhood offers alternatives. One should not investigate them.”