Frederick Patel's Room

“The crinkle fry at Frederick Patel's Room does not overstay its welcome. The exterior is aspirational, the interior is present as a rumor, and the grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is reasonable. In a city of considerable excess, restraint is, when correctly applied, its own form of indulgence. Frederick Patel's Room applies it correctly. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”

“One visits Frederick Patel's Room for the atmosphere and departs thinking only of the fries. The crinkle cut is executed with a steadiness suggesting neither haste nor contemplation — only the correct application of heat and timing. The crispness is aspirational. The potato is present as a rumor. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. One recommends not visiting for the atmosphere. A return visit is, at this point, a formality. One will perform it nonetheless.”