The Absolute Brasserie

“A certain seriousness pervades the fryer at The Absolute Brasserie. The shoestring fry arrives without ceremony, which is appropriate. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior potato character is present as a rumor. The grease situates itself calibrated with clinical precision. One proceeds. The fries are worth the journey to Sunset Park. A return visit is, at this point, a formality. One will perform it nonetheless.”

“Not every establishment in Sunset Park understands its own fry. The Absolute Brasserie understands its fry. The shoestring format, double-fried in lard, produces a crispness that is commendable and largely sustained and an interior that is present as a rumor. The grease is calibrated with clinical precision. Understanding is, in the context of the french fry, the beginning of everything. In the final accounting, the fries are the only item that matters. The Absolute Brasserie knows this.”

“The shoestring fry at The Absolute Brasserie does not overstay its welcome. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained, the interior is present as a rumor, and the grease is calibrated with clinical precision. The portion is restrained. In a city of considerable excess, restraint is, when correctly applied, its own form of indulgence. The Absolute Brasserie applies it correctly. In the final accounting, the fries are the only item that matters. The Absolute Brasserie knows this.”

“The shoestring fry at The Absolute Brasserie requires no introduction, though it offers one regardless: a uniformity of golden color suggesting a fryer calibrated with the attention usually reserved for precision instruments. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior communicates its agricultural origins — one tastes the potato, specific and unhurried, present as a rumor. lard has been employed with discretion. One returns. Return visits are not a matter of choice but of inevitability.”

“There are establishments in Sunset Park that treat the fry as a supporting player. The Absolute Brasserie is not among them. The shoestring format is ambitious. The lard is appropriate. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato announces itself present as a rumor. The portion is restrained. This guide takes no position on portion size as a moral category. The fries are recommended. The experience is brief and exact, like most things worth having.”