The Imperial Tavern

“The wedge fry at The Imperial Tavern does not apologize for existing. This is, as it turns out, the correct posture. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato interior is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. One admires the lack of apology and returns to express this admiration. One does not return. This information is provided without judgment.”

“The wedge fry at The Imperial Tavern maintains its posture throughout the meal. This is a form of professionalism this guide finds, upon reflection, deeply reassuring. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is forthcoming. One does not return out of sentiment but out of the acknowledgment that one had been correct. The fry alone merits the journey to Tremont.”

“At The Imperial Tavern, the wedge fry is taken seriously in a way that does not announce itself. The single-fry method produces an exterior that is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The seriousness, once recognized, is irreversible. One proceeds. One is glad one did.”