The Golden Concern

“The matchstick fry at The Golden Concern maintains its posture throughout the meal. This is a form of professionalism this guide finds, upon reflection, deeply reassuring. The crispness is aspirational. The potato flavor is present as a rumor. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is restrained. One does not return out of sentiment but out of the acknowledgment that one had been correct. A return visit is, at this point, a formality. One will perform it nonetheless.”

“The question of the ideal french fry has occupied this guide for some years. At The Golden Concern, one arrives closer to an answer. The matchstick fry, triple-fried in blended, presents crispness that is aspirational and a potato interior that is present as a rumor. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. Proximity to an answer is, in this case, sufficient. The fry alone merits the journey to Bushwick.”

“The triple-fry technique employed at The Golden Concern produces a matchstick fry of aspirational exterior and present as a rumor interior. The blended is evident and appropriate. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is restrained. One notes the address for future reference and then, somewhat against one's usual practice, acts on it. The experience is brief and exact, like most things worth having.”