The Golden Dining Room

“The fry at The Golden Dining Room does not call attention to itself. It does not need to. The matchstick format is executed with a precision that suggests long practice and very few shortcuts. The crispness is aspirational. The potato flavor is present and largely coherent. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision. Best ordered without accompaniment. The fry requires no defense counsel.”

“One does not come to Forest Hills for the fries. One comes for the fries at The Golden Dining Room. The distinction matters. The matchstick fry is aspirational without, and present and largely coherent within. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is restrained. The distinction, once understood, becomes permanent. Best ordered without accompaniment. The fry requires no defense counsel.”

“The matchstick fry presents itself at The Golden Dining Room with an unusual degree of self-possession. The exterior is aspirational. The interior is present and largely coherent. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is restrained. One accepts the fry on its own terms. Its terms are acceptable. A return visit is, at this point, a formality. One will perform it nonetheless.”

“A kitchen that triple-fries in vegetable has made a commitment. At The Golden Dining Room, this commitment is honored. The matchstick fry arrives crisp — aspirational — and present and largely coherent within. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is restrained. Commitments, when honored, tend to produce results. This guide recommends the fries and nothing else. This is sufficient.”