The Royal Frite

“The matchstick fry at The Royal Frite requires no introduction, though it offers one regardless: a uniformity of golden color suggesting a fryer calibrated with the attention usually reserved for precision instruments. The exterior is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior communicates its agricultural origins — one tastes the potato, specific and unhurried, present and largely coherent. blended has been employed with discretion. One returns. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”

“The matchstick fry is, at its best, a meditation on patience. The Royal Frite understands this. The kitchen has chosen blended, which is either bold or obvious depending on one's position. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior potato character is present and largely coherent. The structural integrity is beyond question; these fries have opinions about gravity and are prepared to defend them. One returns. The fry alone merits the journey to Midtown East.”