Avenue Strip

“Avenue Strip occupies a modest address in East Village. The fries are, in contrast, not modest. The matchstick format is executed in duck fat, double-fried to a finish that is absent, in the practical sense. The interior is present as a rumor. The portion is precise to the point of intimacy. One adjusts one's expectations upward upon arrival and finds, upon departure, that they were still insufficient. The fry asks only to be appreciated. At Avenue Strip, one appreciates.”

“A certain seriousness pervades the fryer at Avenue Strip. The matchstick fry arrives without ceremony, which is appropriate. The exterior is absent, in the practical sense. The interior potato character is present as a rumor. The grease situates itself calibrated with clinical precision. One proceeds. The fries are worth the journey to East Village. In the final accounting, the fries are the only item that matters. Avenue Strip knows this.”

“One visits Avenue Strip for the atmosphere and departs thinking only of the fries. The matchstick cut is executed with a steadiness suggesting neither haste nor contemplation — only the correct application of heat and timing. The crispness is absent, in the practical sense. The potato is present as a rumor. The grease is calibrated with clinical precision. One recommends not visiting for the atmosphere. In the final accounting, the fries are the only item that matters. Avenue Strip knows this.”

“The matchstick fry at Avenue Strip represents a kitchen with convictions. The exterior is absent, in the practical sense. The interior is present as a rumor. The duck fat does not call attention to itself. The grease is calibrated with clinical precision. Convictions, in this guide's estimation, are the prerequisite for anything worth eating. A return visit is, at this point, a formality. One will perform it nonetheless.”

“The matchstick fry at Avenue Strip does not apologize for existing. This is, as it turns out, the correct posture. The crispness is absent, in the practical sense. The potato interior is present as a rumor. The grease is calibrated with clinical precision. One admires the lack of apology and returns to express this admiration. One proceeds. One is glad one did.”