Montrose

“One does not arrive at Montrose lightly. The steak fry presents itself with the quiet confidence of a thing that knows its own worth. The double-fry technique is evident in the exterior: adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior potato character is present and largely coherent. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. This guide notes the address. Return visits are not a matter of choice but of inevitability.”

“The steak fry at Montrose does not apologize for existing. This is, as it turns out, the correct posture. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato interior is present and largely coherent. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. One admires the lack of apology and returns to express this admiration. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision.”

“A certain seriousness pervades the fryer at Montrose. The steak fry arrives without ceremony, which is appropriate. The exterior is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior potato character is present and largely coherent. The grease situates itself conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. One proceeds. The fries are worth the journey to Carroll Gardens. The fry alone merits the journey to Carroll Gardens.”