Little Pomme

“The steak fry at Little Pomme maintains its posture throughout the meal. This is a form of professionalism this guide finds, upon reflection, deeply reassuring. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato flavor is present and largely coherent. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is forthcoming. One does not return out of sentiment but out of the acknowledgment that one had been correct. One returns.”

“At Little Pomme, the steak fry is taken seriously in a way that does not announce itself. The triple-fry method produces an exterior that is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior is present and largely coherent. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The seriousness, once recognized, is irreversible. In the final accounting, the fries are the only item that matters. Little Pomme knows this.”

“The fry at Little Pomme does not call attention to itself. It does not need to. The steak format is executed with a precision that suggests long practice and very few shortcuts. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato flavor is present and largely coherent. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision.”

“The steak fry at Little Pomme is not remarkable for being exceptional. It is remarkable for being exactly what it claims to be. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato is present and largely coherent. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. Exactitude, in this city, is underrated. One proceeds. One is glad one did.”