Odette Hargreaves's Establishment

“A certain seriousness pervades the fryer at Odette Hargreaves's Establishment. The curly fry arrives without ceremony, which is appropriate. The exterior is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior potato character is present and largely coherent. The grease situates itself conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. One proceeds. The fries are worth the journey to Murray Hill. Best ordered without accompaniment. The fry requires no defense counsel.”

“The curly fry at Odette Hargreaves's Establishment does not overstay its welcome. The exterior is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition, the interior is present and largely coherent, and the grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is reasonable. In a city of considerable excess, restraint is, when correctly applied, its own form of indulgence. Odette Hargreaves's Establishment applies it correctly. One proceeds. One is glad one did.”

“The curly fry at Odette Hargreaves's Establishment requires no introduction, though it offers one regardless: a uniformity of golden color suggesting a fryer calibrated with the attention usually reserved for precision instruments. The exterior is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior communicates its agricultural origins — one tastes the potato, specific and unhurried, present and largely coherent. canola has been employed with discretion. One returns. Return visits are not a matter of choice but of inevitability.”

“One arrives skeptical at Odette Hargreaves's Establishment. One departs converted. The curly fry is responsible for both. The exterior is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior presents a potato present and largely coherent. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. Skepticism, as a protective measure, has its limits. This guide has reached them. The experience is brief and exact, like most things worth having.”

“The curly fry at Odette Hargreaves's Establishment is not remarkable for being exceptional. It is remarkable for being exactly what it claims to be. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato is present and largely coherent. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. Exactitude, in this city, is underrated. Best ordered without accompaniment. The fry requires no defense counsel.”