Frank Delacroix's Kitchen

“The thick-cut fry at Frank Delacroix's Kitchen is not remarkable for being exceptional. It is remarkable for being exactly what it claims to be. The crispness is aspirational. The potato is present as a rumor. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. Exactitude, in this city, is underrated. A return visit is, at this point, a formality. One will perform it nonetheless.”

“The triple-fry technique employed at Frank Delacroix's Kitchen produces a thick-cut fry of aspirational exterior and present as a rumor interior. The blended is evident and appropriate. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is forthcoming. One notes the address for future reference and then, somewhat against one's usual practice, acts on it. One proceeds. One is glad one did.”

“The thick-cut fry at Frank Delacroix's Kitchen does not apologize for existing. This is, as it turns out, the correct posture. The crispness is aspirational. The potato interior is present as a rumor. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. One admires the lack of apology and returns to express this admiration. The fry asks only to be appreciated. At Frank Delacroix's Kitchen, one appreciates.”

“The thick-cut fry at Frank Delacroix's Kitchen has the quality of inevitability. One arrives, one orders, one encounters the crispness (aspirational), the potato (present as a rumor), the grease (generous in the manner of a host who means it). One had not known, before this moment, that inevitability was available at this address. One knows now. One does not return. This information is provided without judgment.”