La Pomme

“The fry at La Pomme does not arrive unannounced. Its aroma precedes it through the dining room with the confidence of someone who has reserved well in advance. The wedge cut is executed with precision. The double-fried exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior presents a potato present and largely coherent. The grease does not call attention to itself, which is what one hopes for from grease. The experience is brief and exact, like most things worth having.”

“The wedge fry presents itself at La Pomme with an unusual degree of self-possession. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior is present and largely coherent. The grease is calibrated with clinical precision. The portion is reasonable. One accepts the fry on its own terms. Its terms are acceptable. Best ordered without accompaniment. The fry requires no defense counsel.”

“One arrives skeptical at La Pomme. One departs converted. The wedge fry is responsible for both. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior presents a potato present and largely coherent. The grease is calibrated with clinical precision. Skepticism, as a protective measure, has its limits. This guide has reached them. The fry asks only to be appreciated. At La Pomme, one appreciates.”