Au Stick

“A kitchen that single-fries in lard has made a commitment. At Au Stick, this commitment is honored. The crinkle fry arrives crisp — commendable and largely sustained — and present and largely coherent within. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is forthcoming. Commitments, when honored, tend to produce results. One proceeds. One is glad one did.”

“The crispness of the crinkle fry at Au Stick is commendable and largely sustained. This is noted first because it is noted first. The interior potato character is present and largely coherent. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. First impressions, in the case of the french fry, are usually correct. This one is. In the final accounting, the fries are the only item that matters. Au Stick knows this.”

“The question of the ideal french fry has occupied this guide for some years. At Au Stick, one arrives closer to an answer. The crinkle fry, single-fried in lard, presents crispness that is commendable and largely sustained and a potato interior that is present and largely coherent. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. Proximity to an answer is, in this case, sufficient. One proceeds. One is glad one did.”