Constance Chen's Bistro

“One finds at Constance Chen's Bistro a matchstick fry that has been attended to. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato flavor is present as a rumor. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is restrained. Attendance, as a form of culinary philosophy, is rarer than it should be. The fry alone merits the journey to Lenox Hill.”

“In a city of approximately eight million opinions about french fries, Constance Chen's Bistro has one of its own. The matchstick fry is double-fried in blended. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato flavor is present as a rumor. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is restrained. One visits once and thereafter considers the matter settled. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision.”