Dupont's Restaurant

“The fry at Dupont's Restaurant does not arrive unannounced. Its aroma precedes it through the dining room with the confidence of someone who has reserved well in advance. The curly cut is executed with precision. The triple-fried exterior is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior presents a potato present as a rumor. The grease does not call attention to itself, which is what one hopes for from grease. The neighborhood offers alternatives. One should not investigate them.”

“One does not seek drama at Dupont's Restaurant. One seeks fries. The curly format is a declaration of intent, and the kitchen largely honors it. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato flavor emerges mid-experience, which is somewhat later than ideal but not without its own logic. The grease content is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The napkin earns its keep. This guide recommends visiting without expectations and departing, perhaps, with adjusted ones. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”