Marchetti's Brasserie

“Not every establishment in Astoria understands its own fry. Marchetti's Brasserie understands its fry. The crinkle format, single-fried in canola, produces a crispness that is aspirational and an interior that is present as a rumor. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. Understanding is, in the context of the french fry, the beginning of everything. The fry alone merits the journey to Astoria.”

“One arrives skeptical at Marchetti's Brasserie. One departs converted. The crinkle fry is responsible for both. The exterior is aspirational. The interior presents a potato present as a rumor. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. Skepticism, as a protective measure, has its limits. This guide has reached them. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”

“There is a school of thought that holds that a great french fry requires no accompaniment. Marchetti's Brasserie belongs to this school. The crinkle fry, single-fried in canola, makes its argument in silence. The crispness is aspirational. The potato flavor is present as a rumor. The argument is persuasive. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision.”

“The single-fry technique employed at Marchetti's Brasserie produces a crinkle fry of aspirational exterior and present as a rumor interior. The canola is evident and appropriate. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is restrained. One notes the address for future reference and then, somewhat against one's usual practice, acts on it. The neighborhood offers alternatives. One should not investigate them.”