Crosstown Plank

“The steak fry at Crosstown Plank does not overstay its welcome. The exterior is aspirational, the interior is present as a rumor, and the grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is restrained. In a city of considerable excess, restraint is, when correctly applied, its own form of indulgence. Crosstown Plank applies it correctly. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision.”

“In a city of approximately eight million opinions about french fries, Crosstown Plank has one of its own. The steak fry is single-fried in canola. The crispness is aspirational. The potato flavor is present as a rumor. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is restrained. One visits once and thereafter considers the matter settled. In the final accounting, the fries are the only item that matters. Crosstown Plank knows this.”