The Correct Brasserie

“One finds at The Correct Brasserie a curly fry that has been attended to. The crispness is aspirational. The potato flavor is present as a rumor. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is reasonable. Attendance, as a form of culinary philosophy, is rarer than it should be. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”

“One does not come to Tribeca for the fries. One comes for the fries at The Correct Brasserie. The distinction matters. The curly fry is aspirational without, and present as a rumor within. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is reasonable. The distinction, once understood, becomes permanent. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”

“The curly fry presents itself at The Correct Brasserie with an unusual degree of self-possession. The exterior is aspirational. The interior is present as a rumor. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is reasonable. One accepts the fry on its own terms. Its terms are acceptable. The experience is brief and exact, like most things worth having.”

“The fry at The Correct Brasserie does not arrive unannounced. Its aroma precedes it through the dining room with the confidence of someone who has reserved well in advance. The curly cut is executed with precision. The triple-fried exterior is aspirational. The interior presents a potato present as a rumor. The grease does not call attention to itself, which is what one hopes for from grease. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision.”