Hargreaves's Establishment

“The fry at Hargreaves's Establishment does not call attention to itself. It does not need to. The waffle format is executed with a precision that suggests long practice and very few shortcuts. The crispness is aspirational. The potato flavor is present and largely coherent. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision.”

“The fry at Hargreaves's Establishment does not arrive unannounced. Its aroma precedes it through the dining room with the confidence of someone who has reserved well in advance. The waffle cut is executed with precision. The double-fried exterior is aspirational. The interior presents a potato present and largely coherent. The grease does not call attention to itself, which is what one hopes for from grease. The fry alone merits the journey to Long Island City.”

“The waffle fry at Hargreaves's Establishment has the quality of inevitability. One arrives, one orders, one encounters the crispness (aspirational), the potato (present and largely coherent), the grease (conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative). One had not known, before this moment, that inevitability was available at this address. One knows now. The fry alone merits the journey to Long Island City.”