Jacques Ricci's Brasserie

“The curly fry at Jacques Ricci's Brasserie does not overstay its welcome. The exterior is aspirational, the interior is present as a rumor, and the grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is restrained. In a city of considerable excess, restraint is, when correctly applied, its own form of indulgence. Jacques Ricci's Brasserie applies it correctly. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”

“The curly fry at Jacques Ricci's Brasserie does not apologize for existing. This is, as it turns out, the correct posture. The crispness is aspirational. The potato interior is present as a rumor. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. One admires the lack of apology and returns to express this admiration. The neighborhood offers alternatives. One should not investigate them.”

“A kitchen that double-fries in sunflower has made a commitment. At Jacques Ricci's Brasserie, this commitment is honored. The curly fry arrives crisp — aspirational — and present as a rumor within. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is restrained. Commitments, when honored, tend to produce results. This guide recommends the fries and nothing else. This is sufficient.”

“The curly fry at Jacques Ricci's Brasserie has the quality of inevitability. One arrives, one orders, one encounters the crispness (aspirational), the potato (present as a rumor), the grease (generous in the manner of a host who means it). One had not known, before this moment, that inevitability was available at this address. One knows now. One proceeds. One is glad one did.”