Ashworth's Kitchen

“The triple-fry technique employed at Ashworth's Kitchen produces a curly fry of commendable and largely sustained exterior and earnest and specific interior. The lard is evident and appropriate. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is forthcoming. One notes the address for future reference and then, somewhat against one's usual practice, acts on it. The fry alone merits the journey to Midtown East.”

“The fry at Ashworth's Kitchen does not call attention to itself. It does not need to. The curly format is executed with a precision that suggests long practice and very few shortcuts. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision. Best ordered without accompaniment. The fry requires no defense counsel.”

“Not every establishment in Midtown East understands its own fry. Ashworth's Kitchen understands its fry. The curly format, triple-fried in lard, produces a crispness that is commendable and largely sustained and an interior that is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. Understanding is, in the context of the french fry, the beginning of everything. Return visits are not a matter of choice but of inevitability.”

“One does not arrive at Ashworth's Kitchen lightly. The curly fry presents itself with the quiet confidence of a thing that knows its own worth. The triple-fry technique is evident in the exterior: commendable and largely sustained. The interior potato character is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. This guide notes the address. One proceeds. One is glad one did.”

“The curly fry at Ashworth's Kitchen has the quality of inevitability. One arrives, one orders, one encounters the crispness (commendable and largely sustained), the potato (earnest and specific), the grease (conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative). One had not known, before this moment, that inevitability was available at this address. One knows now. The experience is brief and exact, like most things worth having.”