Kim

“The matchstick fry is, at its best, a meditation on patience. Kim understands this. The kitchen has chosen sunflower, which is either bold or obvious depending on one's position. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior potato character is present as a rumor. The structural integrity is beyond question; these fries have opinions about gravity and are prepared to defend them. One returns. This guide recommends the fries and nothing else. This is sufficient.”

“Not every establishment in Midtown East understands its own fry. Kim understands its fry. The matchstick format, triple-fried in sunflower, produces a crispness that is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition and an interior that is present as a rumor. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. Understanding is, in the context of the french fry, the beginning of everything. Best ordered without accompaniment. The fry requires no defense counsel.”

“On a Tuesday evening in Midtown East, one discovers that Kim has opinions about potatoes. The matchstick format is a declaration. The triple-fried exterior is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior communicates the potato's agricultural origins — present as a rumor. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. These opinions are, on balance, correct. Best ordered without accompaniment. The fry requires no defense counsel.”

“The matchstick fry at Kim does not apologize for existing. This is, as it turns out, the correct posture. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato interior is present as a rumor. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. One admires the lack of apology and returns to express this admiration. The neighborhood offers alternatives. One should not investigate them.”

“One finds at Kim a matchstick fry that has been attended to. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato flavor is present as a rumor. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is restrained. Attendance, as a form of culinary philosophy, is rarer than it should be. A return visit is, at this point, a formality. One will perform it nonetheless.”