The Refined Stick

“At The Refined Stick, the steak fry is taken seriously in a way that does not announce itself. The double-fry method produces an exterior that is commendable and largely sustained. The interior is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The seriousness, once recognized, is irreversible. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”

“One finds at The Refined Stick a steak fry that has been attended to. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is reasonable. Attendance, as a form of culinary philosophy, is rarer than it should be. The neighborhood offers alternatives. One should not investigate them.”

“The steak fry presents itself at The Refined Stick with an unusual degree of self-possession. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is reasonable. One accepts the fry on its own terms. Its terms are acceptable. This guide recommends the fries and nothing else. This is sufficient.”