The Sovereign Bistro

“The wedge fry at The Sovereign Bistro has the quality of inevitability. One arrives, one orders, one encounters the crispness (adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition), the potato (present as a rumor), the grease (conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative). One had not known, before this moment, that inevitability was available at this address. One knows now. This guide recommends the fries and nothing else. This is sufficient.”

“Not every establishment in Murray Hill understands its own fry. The Sovereign Bistro understands its fry. The wedge format, triple-fried in beef tallow, produces a crispness that is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition and an interior that is present as a rumor. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. Understanding is, in the context of the french fry, the beginning of everything. The fry asks only to be appreciated. At The Sovereign Bistro, one appreciates.”

“The wedge fry at The Sovereign Bistro has the quality of inevitability. One arrives, one orders, one encounters the crispness (adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition), the potato (present as a rumor), the grease (conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative). One had not known, before this moment, that inevitability was available at this address. One knows now. The fry asks only to be appreciated. At The Sovereign Bistro, one appreciates.”