Klein's Kitchen

“The wedge fry at Klein's Kitchen is not remarkable for being exceptional. It is remarkable for being exactly what it claims to be. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato is earnest and specific. The grease is calibrated with clinical precision. Exactitude, in this city, is underrated. One returns.”

“One visits Klein's Kitchen for the atmosphere and departs thinking only of the fries. The wedge cut is executed with a steadiness suggesting neither haste nor contemplation — only the correct application of heat and timing. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato is earnest and specific. The grease is calibrated with clinical precision. One recommends not visiting for the atmosphere. One proceeds. One is glad one did.”

“The wedge fry presents itself at Klein's Kitchen with an unusual degree of self-possession. The exterior is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior is earnest and specific. The grease is calibrated with clinical precision. The portion is forthcoming. One accepts the fry on its own terms. Its terms are acceptable. One proceeds. One is glad one did.”