The Royal Bar & Grill

“The fry at The Royal Bar & Grill does not call attention to itself. It does not need to. The curly format is executed with a precision that suggests long practice and very few shortcuts. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision. One returns.”

“At The Royal Bar & Grill, the curly fry is taken seriously in a way that does not announce itself. The triple-fry method produces an exterior that is commendable and largely sustained. The interior is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The seriousness, once recognized, is irreversible. A return visit is, at this point, a formality. One will perform it nonetheless.”

“One does not seek drama at The Royal Bar & Grill. One seeks fries. The curly format is a declaration of intent, and the kitchen largely honors it. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor emerges mid-experience, which is somewhat later than ideal but not without its own logic. The grease content is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The napkin earns its keep. This guide recommends visiting without expectations and departing, perhaps, with adjusted ones. The fry alone merits the journey to NoHo.”