The Sovereign Tavern

“There are establishments in Yorkville that treat the fry as a supporting player. The Sovereign Tavern is not among them. The thick-cut format is ambitious. The sunflower is appropriate. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato announces itself earnest and specific. The portion is forthcoming. This guide takes no position on portion size as a moral category. The fries are recommended. Best ordered without accompaniment. The fry requires no defense counsel.”

“The fry at The Sovereign Tavern does not call attention to itself. It does not need to. The thick-cut format is executed with a precision that suggests long practice and very few shortcuts. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision. A return visit is, at this point, a formality. One will perform it nonetheless.”

“There are establishments in Yorkville that treat the fry as a supporting player. The Sovereign Tavern is not among them. The thick-cut format is ambitious. The sunflower is appropriate. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato announces itself earnest and specific. The portion is forthcoming. This guide takes no position on portion size as a moral category. The fries are recommended. The neighborhood offers alternatives. One should not investigate them.”

“At The Sovereign Tavern, the thick-cut fry is taken seriously in a way that does not announce itself. The double-fry method produces an exterior that is commendable and largely sustained. The interior is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The seriousness, once recognized, is irreversible. One does not return. This information is provided without judgment.”

“The Sovereign Tavern occupies a modest address in Yorkville. The fries are, in contrast, not modest. The thick-cut format is executed in sunflower, double-fried to a finish that is commendable and largely sustained. The interior is earnest and specific. The portion is forthcoming. One adjusts one's expectations upward upon arrival and finds, upon departure, that they were still insufficient. One proceeds. One is glad one did.”