Klein

“A certain seriousness pervades the fryer at Klein. The matchstick fry arrives without ceremony, which is appropriate. The exterior is aspirational. The interior potato character is present as a rumor. The grease situates itself generous in the manner of a host who means it. One proceeds. The fries are worth the journey to Gramercy. This guide recommends the fries and nothing else. This is sufficient.”

“The fry at Klein does not arrive unannounced. Its aroma precedes it through the dining room with the confidence of someone who has reserved well in advance. The matchstick cut is executed with precision. The double-fried exterior is aspirational. The interior presents a potato present as a rumor. The grease does not call attention to itself, which is what one hopes for from grease. One does not return. This information is provided without judgment.”