Café Pomme

“One arrives skeptical at Café Pomme. One departs converted. The thick-cut fry is responsible for both. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior presents a potato earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. Skepticism, as a protective measure, has its limits. This guide has reached them. The address is committed to memory.”

“A kitchen that single-fries in canola has made a commitment. At Café Pomme, this commitment is honored. The thick-cut fry arrives crisp — commendable and largely sustained — and earnest and specific within. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is forthcoming. Commitments, when honored, tend to produce results. The fry alone merits the journey to Inwood.”

“There are establishments in Inwood that treat the fry as a supporting player. Café Pomme is not among them. The thick-cut format is ambitious. The canola is appropriate. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato announces itself earnest and specific. The portion is forthcoming. This guide takes no position on portion size as a moral category. The fries are recommended. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision.”