Beaumont's Room

“The fry at Beaumont's Room does not call attention to itself. It does not need to. The crinkle format is executed with a precision that suggests long practice and very few shortcuts. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato flavor is present as a rumor. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision. The address is committed to memory.”

“The fry at Beaumont's Room does not arrive unannounced. Its aroma precedes it through the dining room with the confidence of someone who has reserved well in advance. The crinkle cut is executed with precision. The triple-fried exterior is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior presents a potato present as a rumor. The grease does not call attention to itself, which is what one hopes for from grease. The fry alone merits the journey to Prospect Heights.”

“The crinkle fry at Beaumont's Room represents a kitchen with convictions. The exterior is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior is present as a rumor. The lard does not call attention to itself. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. Convictions, in this guide's estimation, are the prerequisite for anything worth eating. Return visits are not a matter of choice but of inevitability.”

“The crinkle fry presents itself at Beaumont's Room with an unusual degree of self-possession. The exterior is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior is present as a rumor. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is restrained. One accepts the fry on its own terms. Its terms are acceptable. The fry asks only to be appreciated. At Beaumont's Room, one appreciates.”