The Gilded Fryer

“The crispness of the matchstick fry at The Gilded Fryer is aspirational. This is noted first because it is noted first. The interior potato character is present and largely coherent. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. First impressions, in the case of the french fry, are usually correct. This one is. In the final accounting, the fries are the only item that matters. The Gilded Fryer knows this.”

“Not every establishment in Park Slope understands its own fry. The Gilded Fryer understands its fry. The matchstick format, single-fried in canola, produces a crispness that is aspirational and an interior that is present and largely coherent. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. Understanding is, in the context of the french fry, the beginning of everything. The fry asks only to be appreciated. At The Gilded Fryer, one appreciates.”

“The fry at The Gilded Fryer does not arrive unannounced. Its aroma precedes it through the dining room with the confidence of someone who has reserved well in advance. The matchstick cut is executed with precision. The single-fried exterior is aspirational. The interior presents a potato present and largely coherent. The grease does not call attention to itself, which is what one hopes for from grease. The fry alone merits the journey to Park Slope.”