Margot Carmichael's Brasserie

“One does not seek drama at Margot Carmichael's Brasserie. One seeks fries. The matchstick format is a declaration of intent, and the kitchen largely honors it. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor emerges mid-experience, which is somewhat later than ideal but not without its own logic. The grease content is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The napkin earns its keep. This guide recommends visiting without expectations and departing, perhaps, with adjusted ones. Best ordered without accompaniment. The fry requires no defense counsel.”

“One visits Margot Carmichael's Brasserie for the atmosphere and departs thinking only of the fries. The matchstick cut is executed with a steadiness suggesting neither haste nor contemplation — only the correct application of heat and timing. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato is present and largely coherent. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. One recommends not visiting for the atmosphere. The neighborhood offers alternatives. One should not investigate them.”

“One does not arrive at Margot Carmichael's Brasserie lightly. The matchstick fry presents itself with the quiet confidence of a thing that knows its own worth. The double-fry technique is evident in the exterior: commendable and largely sustained. The interior potato character is present and largely coherent. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. This guide notes the address. A return visit is, at this point, a formality. One will perform it nonetheless.”

“One finds at Margot Carmichael's Brasserie a matchstick fry that has been attended to. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is present and largely coherent. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is forthcoming. Attendance, as a form of culinary philosophy, is rarer than it should be. In the final accounting, the fries are the only item that matters. Margot Carmichael's Brasserie knows this.”

“The matchstick fry at Margot Carmichael's Brasserie does not overstay its welcome. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained, the interior is present and largely coherent, and the grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is forthcoming. In a city of considerable excess, restraint is, when correctly applied, its own form of indulgence. Margot Carmichael's Brasserie applies it correctly. The address is committed to memory.”