Uptown Wedge

“The waffle fry at Uptown Wedge requires no introduction, though it offers one regardless: a uniformity of golden color suggesting a fryer calibrated with the attention usually reserved for precision instruments. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior communicates its agricultural origins — one tastes the potato, specific and unhurried, present and largely coherent. blended has been employed with discretion. One returns. Best ordered without accompaniment. The fry requires no defense counsel.”

“A certain seriousness pervades the fryer at Uptown Wedge. The waffle fry arrives without ceremony, which is appropriate. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior potato character is present and largely coherent. The grease situates itself conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. One proceeds. The fries are worth the journey to Upper East Side. One proceeds. One is glad one did.”

“The waffle fry at Uptown Wedge maintains its posture throughout the meal. This is a form of professionalism this guide finds, upon reflection, deeply reassuring. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is present and largely coherent. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is forthcoming. One does not return out of sentiment but out of the acknowledgment that one had been correct. Return visits are not a matter of choice but of inevitability.”

“There are establishments in Upper East Side that treat the fry as a supporting player. Uptown Wedge is not among them. The waffle format is ambitious. The blended is appropriate. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato announces itself present and largely coherent. The portion is forthcoming. This guide takes no position on portion size as a moral category. The fries are recommended. This guide recommends the fries and nothing else. This is sufficient.”

“The waffle fry at Uptown Wedge has the quality of inevitability. One arrives, one orders, one encounters the crispness (commendable and largely sustained), the potato (present and largely coherent), the grease (conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative). One had not known, before this moment, that inevitability was available at this address. One knows now. One returns.”